Johannesburg – Before so much as accepting the trophy at the end of a grand slam, tennis stars like Jannik Sinner and Carlos Calcaraz snap on a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona – a watch that has become synonymous with tennis.
Formula 1, on the other hand, is a little more diverse with current world champion Max Verstappen sporting a collection of TAG Heuers and Lewis Hamilton wearing Richard Mille.
Out on the greens, golfing legend Rory McIlroy tees off with an Omega on his wrist.
From sporting legends to Rolex ambassadors, luxury watches come with a unique narrative and legacy as well as a timeless value that is seeing high net worth individuals dig deep to invest.
Collecting watches can be anything from a hobby to an investment strategy, with international crypto purchases from as far afield as North Africa becoming increasingly common, according to Johan Dreyer, founder and CEO of Top Watch.
Dreyer will be curating the watch collection coming under the High Street Auction Company hammer on October 22.
Many of the once off, rare, and “ultra cool” pieces come from Japan.
There are also highly collectible iconic vintage watches, which are a growing trend amongst investment savvy collectors, as well as some high-end watches worth millions of rands that are being sold off a single lot as part of the Edcon restructuring.
All are top of the range and authentic – and come with a stamp of approval, Dreyer says.
“Key elements in the world of watches are that they are a mobile, appreciating asset that provides instant liquid insurance backup should something happen,” he says.
“That’s a massive drawcard for people.”
The right time to invest in luxury watches
Another drawcard in a world where tariff wars and geo-political tensions are seeing traditional investment vehicles like stocks and equities tank whilst safe havens like gold break barriers, is that luxury assets such as watches can diversify an asset portfolio whilst remaining a wearable status symbol.
The global watch market was estimated to be worth around $35.258 billion in 2024, according to Morgan Stanley.
Renub Research valued the South African watch market at around 413.09 million. It is expected to grow by at least 5% annually to reach $640.28 million by 2033.
Unlike assets such as new, luxury cars, watches lose very little value from year to year with the more desirable brands even accruing value in what is known as the secondary market.
Now worth an estimated $24 billion (Duprelle et al, 2023), this is booming with brands like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe garnering returns that outpace most financial markets.
At least a third of luxury watches are bought and sold second-hand due to increased demand but limited availability.
Buyers sometimes wait up to five years to obtain certain Rolex models, for example.
Watching for good investments
“Investors wishing to include luxury watches in their portfolios must do their research and should view these as longer-term investments,” advises High Street Auction Company director Lance Chalwin-Milton.
“Once investors are familiar with the market dynamics, luxury watches have the added bonus of being a symbol of personal achievement and even a legacy for future generations.
“The auction platform is the ideal platform to acquire these.”
Collectible time pieces are also a low-risk investment.
Dreyer notes that the possibility of buying so-called super fakes is far less in the secondary market as the likes of the High Street Auction Company bring in experts to authenticate high-end time pieces.
For newcomers to the world of collectible luxury watches, selecting the right pieces for investment hinges on factors such as brand prestige, rarity and production volume – with limited editions and discontinued models holding value – and condition and originality.
Historical association is also important as illustrated by the Breguet Reine De Naples 8967 that is up for auction on October 22, he says: “This watch stands as a symbol of grace, heritage, and femininity.
“The Breguet Reine de Naples, inspired by one of the very first wristwatches ever created by Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline, Queen of Naples, comes with an elegant oval case and a mother-of-pearl dial which gives it a jewel-like presence.”
The Rolex Daytona Zenith 18k, complete with box and service papers, is probably the only one of its kind in South Africa, he adds: “Few words quicken the pulse of collectors more than Daytona.
“The legendary Zenith-powered Daytona is the watch that defined an era, housing the famed El Primero-based calibre that brought automatic chronograph performance into Rolex’s most iconic sports model.”
Last but not least is a watch that embodies the golden age of Swiss watchmaking.
“This 1959 IWC Calibre 853 Automatic in 18ct gold presents a perfectly balanced dial with slender hands and applied indices, a study in understated sophistication that only decades of heritage can achieve,” Dreyer concludes.
“Within its case beats the legendary Calibre 853 movement, a marvel of precision and reliability, delivering smooth automatic winding and enduring performance that has kept perfect time for over sixty years.
“This is more than a vintage watch; it is a collector’s dream, a rare opportunity to own a piece of horological history where every glance recalls the artistry, dedication, and refinement that defined IWC at its finest.”
For more information, visit https://www.luxury.highstreetauctions.com/auction/22-october-2025-luxury-live-and-online-auction/
